From Sunshine to Struggles: A Grueling Adventure Through Ifugao's Majestic Landscapes (Cordillera x Sierra Madre - Day 4)

Kim Javier
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On the fourth day of our journey, we were greeted by glorious sunshine after enduring three consecutive days of relentless downpours. Finally, Jay's macerated feet had a chance to heal without further damage. We decided to pedal in our flip-flops, allowing our feet to breathe and recover from being soaked in rain for an extended period.

Around 7 in the morning, we stopped at a Lugaw House in Saguday, Quirino to have breakfast. It was there that I experienced the mouthwatering delight of Lugaw for the first time. I never imagined that Lugaw could be so incredibly delicious. It was a truly unique culinary experience.


By 9 am, we reached Santiago City, where Edwin urgently needed to find bike shops to purchase spare brake pads. He had already used up all his spares while navigating the challenging roads of Sierra Madre. Unfortunately, most shops were closed due to the November 1 holiday. Undeterred, we continued our journey, preparing ourselves mentally and physically for the demanding climbs that awaited us along the entire route, starting from Alfonso Lista, Ifugao, approximately 30 kilometers from Santiago City.

We couldn't resist capturing the picturesque markings of Santiago City, known as the gateway to the Cagayan Valley, in our photographs.


As we proceeded, the scorching heat became more intense, especially on the stretch leading to Ramon. Unbeknownst to us, the road suddenly revealed the awe-inspiring MARIS dam, with its colossal structure and powerful rushing waters. Gazing down at the currents made me feel slightly lightheaded.

We crossed into Potia, Ifugao, marking the boundary of Ifugao province. Sensing the challenging climbs that lay ahead, we had a hearty lunch to fuel our bodies. With each passing moment, the scenery became increasingly captivating as the natural beauty of the mountain province unveiled itself before our eyes.


By 1 pm, the scorching heat became almost unbearable, but we pushed ourselves to continue. Consulting my climb radar, I discovered that we were about to tackle an 8-kilometer climb with an average gradient of 12.5%, categorizing it as a Hors category climb on Strava.

In simple terms, in the mountain province, any climb under 10 kilometers should have an elevation gain of at least 1000 meters. Only later did we learn that this climb ranked among the top 10 toughest climbs in the province. Unaware of the challenge ahead, we forged ahead, and the initial kilometers proved to be steep and arduous. However, the climb offered respite under the shade of the trees on both sides, shielding us from the scorching sun. At around 30% of the climb, we paused for a photo opportunity and some rest. It was during this break that we encountered a fellow cyclist, and we engaged in a brief conversation. He was surprised to discover that we were also Centurions and shared our journey.

The combination of the afternoon sun and the cool mountain climate made this encounter even more memorable. We took our time to appreciate the breathtaking view of the city from the mountaintop.

Step by step, turn by turn, we pushed ourselves further. The relentless gradients and constant steepness challenged both our minds and bodies.


There were numerous sections where we had to zigzag to alleviate the steepness. Additionally, the dropping temperatures signaled an approaching night that we were unsure of. Finally, around 5 pm, we reached the summit of the climb in Aguinaldo, a popular spot among motorcycle riders. Once again, we commemorated our achievement with photos by the markings, and Jay captured some stunning drone shots.

By 6 pm, we continued our journey without a definite plan for where we would spend the night. Despite the uncertainty, we had already faced and overcome various difficulties, so we felt confident in our ability to handle whatever came our way. However, we couldn't overlook the unpredictable weather conditions in the province.


As nightfall descended upon us, we pushed our weary legs to reach the town of Mayoyao, hoping to find a place to rest for the night. The temperature dropped significantly, and we found ourselves struggling to find a suitable spot. The area seemed isolated, with houses scattered at a distance from one another. It felt awkward to approach them in such a situation, as we were strangers in their community and unsure of how they would perceive us.

That's when Edwin noticed a house with a small tent in the yard. He mustered the courage to ask if we could use it for the night, but the woman hesitated and politely declined. With limited options nearby, our chances of finding shelter seemed slim. Still, we admired Edwin's initiative in asking.

Our last glimmer of hope was a waiting shed we stumbled upon. The freezing cold air penetrated our bodies, and continuing further without finding proper shelter seemed risky. Finally, we spotted a rare waiting shed in the middle of nowhere, and we quickly set up our hammocks between its posts. Dinner consisted of the remaining crackers we had, enough to sustain us through the night. It turned out to be one of the most challenging nights we had ever experienced on our multiday rides, reminiscent of our night ride in Tinoc, Ifugao, at the same altitude. The freezing temperature relentlessly swept through the air, making it difficult to find comfort even with our cold-weather gear and coats. Our emergency sleeping bags proved ineffective, causing us to become excessively sweaty when wrapped in them. I resorted to surviving the night in my hammock, relying on my jacket for warmth. Falling asleep was a struggle, especially with the occasional risk of passing motorcycles. It was far from a comfortable night's rest, but at least we managed to make it through the night, grateful for the small victory of escaping the harsh conditions.


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