Long weekends, those precious gifts of extended leisure, beckon us to break free from the humdrum of routine and create indelible memories. With two consecutive long weekends gracing the month of August, I seized the opportunity for a solo adventure that would etch itself into my memory for years to come.
The first weekend was a missed chance, but I wasn't about to squander the second one. I swiftly filed for vacation leave, determined to maximize this golden opportunity. The original plan was a simple visit to my parents in the province, with a relaxing beach get-together on the agenda. However, a spontaneous urge to explore more of my beloved Bicol region led me to an exciting change of plans.
With a heart set on an immersive bike tour, I raced to the bus station early in the week, providing ample time at my parents' house to prepare for the upcoming adventure.
My campaign of circling the Bicol province took an exciting turn as I set my sights on the captivating island of Catanduanes. Known for its rugged, Batanes-esque landscapes and the relatively easy hike to Binurong Point, Catanduanes promised an adventure like no other.
Planning the Catanduanes 360, as I fondly called it, proved tricky. The schedule of RoRo (Roll-on/Roll-off) trips didn't align with the usual hours for biking, and the vast distances between towns presented challenges in terms of nutrition management throughout the route and finding lodging.
Nonetheless, I was determined to embark on this adventure. Starting with a morning ride from my hometown, I pedaled my way to Naga City, where I had spent my college years. Having recently transitioned to remote work, I was eager to make the most of my stay, reconnect with my younger brother, and rediscover the city's local delicacies and familiar haunts.
As the rain poured throughout the night, I couldn't help but worry about a potentially wet ride the next morning. Nevertheless, Thursday morning arrived, and I set off on my bike tour. It was a 90-kilometer ride to the Tabaco port, the gateway to Catanduanes. Departing Naga City at 5:30 am with persistent rain, I could only hope for fairer weather ahead. Fortunately, the rain eased up, and the skies cleared for the first 30 kilometers of the route.
The route was relatively flat for the first 70 kilometers, allowing me to maintain a steady speed of 30 kilometers per hour. My goal was to catch the 10 am RoRo schedule to Catanduanes, providing me with ample time in the afternoon to cycle to Baras, where Binurong Point awaited my early morning hike.
For several trips to Albay, I had always been disappointed by Mayon Volcano hiding behind clouds, denying me a glimpse of its majestic beauty. But this time, as I traversed the hill climb and descended towards Tabaco, Mayon Volcano stood in full, awe-inspiring display. It was a relief and a reward for my persistence.
Around 9:30 am, I arrived at the Tabaco port, still in disbelief that I was about to visit Catanduanes, a place that had seemed distant in my imagination. I eagerly purchased my ticket for the economy class ferry ride to San Andres port in Catanduanes, which cost around 300 pesos. There was also a 500-peso roundtrip fee for my bike. The trip, initially scheduled for 11 am, was eventually rescheduled to 2 pm due to weather conditions. This delay allowed me to enjoy a leisurely lunch nearby.
Finally, at 2 pm, we arrived at San Andres port, and I wasted no time in starting my Catanduanes 360 loop. My first stop was Virac, the capital of the island, situated 15 kilometers away. Known as the "Happy Island," I was drawn to the Happy Island signage in downtown Virac, setting the tone for my spontaneous exploration of the coastal roads.
As I strolled along the shores of Virac, I was pleasantly surprised by the ongoing development of its boulevard. 
The juxtaposition of lush rice fields and meandering rivers near the urban landscape was a striking feature. The vibe along the coastal road brought back fond memories of a previous trip to Marinduque, where similar coastal charm had left a lasting impression. I was struck by the architectural grandeur of Bato Church, which compelled me to stop and take pictures.It showcases a stunning example of Spanish colonial architecture, with thick stone walls, buttresses, and a bell tower. The use of local materials, such as coral stones, adds to its unique charm. The church is situated near the coastline, offering picturesque views of the sea. Its surroundings are often serene and tranquil, making it a peaceful place for reflection and contemplation.
By 5 pm, I had reached Baras, the gateway to Binurong Point. Here, I began my search for lodging within proximity to the point. Locals informed me that there was only one area where tourists typically stayed before hiking to the site, and I soon found myself at Puraran Beach, an obvious resort along the road. Little did I know that Puraran Beach was one of the most cherished destinations in Catanduanes, making my unplanned choice a stroke of luck.
The beach's serenity, adorned with captivating rock formations, offered a delightful and peaceful escape. The sand was a pleasant shade of orange, inviting to the touch. They offered me a room for 400 pesos, the budget-friendly option for a credit card bike tour like mine. Alternatively, visitors could bring their tents or hammocks and pay for entrance as a cheaper option. I relished the opportunity to savor the tranquil beach, providing a perfect moment for a much-needed hard reset.
During my stay, I had the chance to meet a fellow traveler, which made me realize the advantages of traveling by bike. Unlike backpacking car travel, I had the freedom to stop and immerse myself in the surroundings at any given point. There was boundless freedom on those pedals, and it was a feeling I cherished as the day came to a close.
My adventure in Catanduanes began with an early wake-up call at 3 am. The day ahead held the promise of exploration, but I had to figure out how to reach the entrance of the hike I had planned. When in doubt about unfamiliar routes, my go-to navigation tool is Strava. I scoured the Strava maps to see if any cyclists had previously ventured along the path I intended to take. Fortunately, I found a trail with the most tracks, which gave me confidence that it would lead me to the hike's entrance.
The route I chose was a network of narrower roads that connected small villages in the area. It was still dark outside, and being alone in the dark occasionally sent shivers down my spine. However, I pressed on, determined to reach my destination.
By 4 am, I had reached the entrance, and tour guides were already available for the hike. The hike itself was a relatively easy 15-20 minute journey, so I decided to carry my bike along to capture some stunning photos. The tour guide fee was 250 pesos, and there was a nominal environmental fee to pay.
Upon arriving at the site, my excitement was tinged with a touch of altitude sickness as I gazed at the cliffs. Despite my fear of heights, I had managed to conquer it during previous visits to similar places. We eagerly awaited the sunrise at 5 am, a magical moment that never disappoints.
Binurong Point gets its name from the word "binuro," which means "ferment." The site is well-preserved, and the tour guide informed me that loitering during the night is not allowed, even for locals. The area is abundant with grass where cows graze, and a wooden fence prevents them from falling off the cliff.
Binurong Point offers awe-inspiring panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. The rugged coastline, crystal-clear waters, and lush greenery create a picturesque landscape that's a paradise for nature enthusiasts and photographers alike. I even managed to cycle along the ridge line, a narrow path that added to the extraordinary feeling of reaching such a place on a bike.
After capturing numerous photos, it was time to head back and prepare for the most challenging leg of my journey – a 200 km ride with 4000 meters of climbing. I enjoyed breakfast at the tourist area and engaged in a fascinating conversation with a local about life on the island. To test the linguistic waters, I insisted on conversing with him in the native language to see if he understood Central Bikol. To my surprise, the language was quite similar to what I was familiar with.
At 7 am, I bid farewell and resumed my trip. The rolling and winding coastal road presented itself as soon as I left Baras, Catanduanes, heading to Gigmoto. There were few houses along the road, leaving me alone to conquer the mountainous terrain. The road was filled with turns and hairpin bends, demanding careful navigation. In such remote areas, the possibility of a rescue being hours away was a constant reminder. Whenever I spotted a small store, I would purchase whatever food was available to fuel my journey to the next town.
The climb remained manageable until I reached Gigmoto, thanks to the morning's mild temperatures. However, as the scorching heat and humid air from the Pacific crept in around 10 am, my legs started to tire. The same challenging terrain continued as I headed towards the next town, Viga. Fortunately, I came across several natural springs along the roadside, which allowed me to cool down with a refreshing shower. While I had the physical fitness for the journey, it proved to be a formidable test.
Around 11 am, I arrived in Viga, having covered only 60 km and realizing that I wasn't even halfway through the 200 km route. I enjoyed a leisurely lunch and found a tranquil spot with a cool breeze by a river in Panganiban for a rejuvenating nap.
Upon waking, the roads seemed friendlier as I continued my journey to Bagamanoc, although the climbs still presented a challenge. My legs had grown accustomed to the varied terrains, but I couldn't help but notice the fatigue from constantly shifting gears. It felt like I had changed gears thousands of times. The long, steep climbs on the way to Pandan were recognizable, but the descents offered pleasant curves with sweeping views of the valleys. To fully appreciate Catanduanes' scenery, you would need to spend more time exploring the island.
Around 2 pm, I reached Pandan, marking the halfway point of my journey in the northern part of the island. While the climbs became slightly more manageable, flatter sections remained sparse. With San Andres still far from reach, I continued pedaling with minimal stops, fully aware that riding through the night was inevitable. Nevertheless, I anticipated that nighttime cycling would be relatively easy and favorable.
During my night ride, I garnered some attention from curious onlookers. Perhaps they were amazed or bewildered by my decision to cycle during the dark hours in their region. Along the way, I encountered well-lit bridges with bystanders, offering opportunities to rest and enjoy a snack.
As I entered the final leg of the route, I picked up speed. Gradual climbs and flats characterized this section, albeit with occasional moments of unease and overthinking about the eerie surroundings. I embraced the adventure of solo night riding, keeping my pedals spinning.
Finally, the road began to brighten, signaling my approach to the urban area of San Andres. It was during these last kilometers that I summoned every ounce of strength, knowing there was nothing to lose. I pushed through the final 10 km of straight road, eager to find lodging and catch the earliest trip to Tabaco in the morning.
My nocturnal adventure in Catanduanes was a test of endurance and exploration. From the stunning vistas of Binurong Point to the challenging coastal roads, this journey offered a unique blend of natural beauty and rugged terrain.
Cycling through the night allowed me to connect deeply with my surroundings. It was a reminder that adventures go beyond physical challenges—they're about mental and emotional growth.
As I reached San Andres, I knew this was just the beginning of a treasure trove of memories. Catanduanes had welcomed me, challenged me, and rewarded me with unforgettable experiences. It was a testament to the thrill of embracing the unknown, even if it meant cycling through the night.
With a heart full of gratitude, I left, promising to return one day. For those seeking adventure and nature's beauty, Catanduanes awaits, ready to unveil its secrets to intrepid explorers.
