From Mountain Descents to Cultural Icons: The Roads to Buscalan and the Legendary Apo Whang-od (Cordillera x Sierra Madre - Day 6)

Taking a shower in the freezing morning water was tough, so we opted to wash alongside the road where streams flowed. Our journey began with a thrilling 15-kilometer downhill ride from Mt. Polis in Hungduan to Talubin, Bontoc.

The extreme cold made me wear earflap warmers and gloves to keep my hands from freezing while using the brakes. Luckily, the road was perfect for biking with gentle curves that boosted our confidence. We were amazed by the stunning view of a sea of clouds as we descended and reached the beautiful Bayyo rice terraces, where people and nature coexist peacefully. The way life thrives in such villages always fascinates me.

This downhill stretch in the Mt. Province will always be etched in my memory as one of the most iconic roads. We arrived in Talubin around 7 am and grabbed a quick breakfast by the roadside. Thankfully, Jay had brought his mini camping cooking set, and we enjoyed a coffee break at scenic spots along the way. It was an incredible experience in the Mt. Province. A few meters below, we noticed an alternative route leading back to Santiago, Isabela. Although we wondered about the challenges it might offer, we decided to save it for future plans.

We were now only 10 km away from Bontoc, the capital of the Mt. Province. Few meter ahead, we stumbled upon a restaurant that offers a delightful noodle soup that compliments the cold climate. Most of the route was downhill, and we reached Bontoc by 9 am. Edwin immediately searched for bike shops to get new spare brake pads. Luckily, we found a bike shop just meters away from the main road. Edwin's relief was palpable when he found the brake pads he needed and replaced his torn handlebar grips. Now, he was worry-free as we tackled the treacherous descents. I also picked up a pair of white socks, my favorite choice for any day. Bontoc was a great stop because we could find most of the items we needed.

Our original plan was to go from Bontoc to Sagada, but Jay insisted on a side trip to Buscalan to visit the legendary Apo Whang-od during the planning stage. Buscalan was located 40 km from the capital. After having a hearty meal in Bontoc, we hoped to meet the legend during our stay in Buscalan. Around 10 am, we set off without scouting the route, so we had no idea what the road to Buscalan was like. After a few kilometers, the scenic view unfolded before our eyes. We could see the road winding along the mountainside, with cliffs on the right side.

The lush vegetation on the mountain walls added to the beauty, and all we could do was marvel at the breathtaking sight. It reminded me of the picturesque views of Switzerland, and I felt fortunate to experience this beauty in our own country. We stopped at a section of the road to admire the towering cliffs.

We threw stones and watched them descend to the bottom, appreciating the rugged rocky mountain ranges that formed beautiful rock formations along the road. A river flowed beneath the cliff, creating a perfect scenic backdrop. This was the best that the Mt. Province had to offer, a true feast for the eyes.

The road gradually descended, and it felt deceptively flat. Every turn on the road revealed unparalleled beauty, and we passed by picturesque villages that made us want to stay there for sometime.

We reached Sadanga around 1 pm, and we couldn't resist taking a shower by the side of the road near a mini waterfall. Since we hadn't showered since the previous day, it was the perfect time to freshen up.

With the sun still high, we also took the opportunity to do our laundry. Sadanga turned out to be the most scenic place I had seen in the Mt. Province. If there are any other places that can rival its beauty, please let me know in the comments.

By 4 pm, we arrived at the turning point for Buscalan. There was a medium climb to reach the town, and the anticipation of seeing the legendary tattoo artist, Apo Whang-od, filled us with joy. However, we soon encountered road issues caused by erosion from the previous week's bad weather.

The road was impassable for vehicles, so we had to walk through the muddy section for a few meters. As soon as we arrived, the tour guides greeted us and explained the protocol for visiting Apo Whang-od.

Buscalan town wasn't directly accessible from the road; we had to walk a few kilometers. Situated on the opposite side of the mountain, it was visible from where we stood and had a higher altitude. We descended a cliff using a stairway and climbed up another steep stairway from the bottom. Walking on this terrain was challenging, and it felt like we had to earn the privilege of meeting the legend.

We had no trouble keeping up with the tour guide as we reached the town. They arranged our lodging for the night, and we were pleasantly surprised by the cute wooden rooms that provided great comfort. The food provided was also delightful, adding to the overall experience.

The tour guide scheduled our meeting with Apo Whang-od, and we had to wait for our turn. While waiting, we enjoyed the magnificent view of rice terraces, mountain peaks, and the sunset through the window.

We took a moment to reflect on our journey and how fulfilling it had been. As night fell, dinner was served, and we indulged in various dishes, including a variety of Ampalaya that only grew in their land. Eating in such a place heightened our appetite.

Apo Whang-od was not available until 7 pm, as there was an ongoing cultural festival in the area. The feast was vibrant, with everyone participating in presentations and cultural dances. The chances of getting a tattoo from her were diminishing, and considering our early departure the next morning, it seemed unlikely.

Our tour guide suggested that we could get a traditional tattoo from the newly developed traditional tattoo artists. We were introduced to Princess, the youngest tattoo artist in the village. She told us that she had been tattooing since she was 9 years old. Instead of modern tattoo needles, they used the traditional method of attaching a thorn to a bamboo stick and paired it with ink made from a mixture of water and soot from burnt wood residue in a cooking pot. Since I had never had a tattoo before, I watched Edwin go first to see how it would be. He seemed fine and not bothered by the process.

Then it was my turn, and although it was more painful than I expected, I pushed through, determined to finish the job. The pain was almost unbearable, and I thought to myself that this would be the last time I would get inked. Jay was last in line, and he experienced the same level of pain as I did. He moaned from time to time, expressing how excruciating it was. Finally, all of us had our tattoos done, and we chose the same design, bringing a sense of relief. It would serve as a reminder of our unforgettable experience as a team.

Shortly after, our tour guide called us and informed us that we could have a photo with Whang-od while she was watching the feast. Despite the difficulties of approaching her, we managed to have photos taken amidst the crowd. It was a moment of awe seeing her in person. I couldn't believe how active a centenarian could be. She was well-dressed and wore makeup, presenting a perfect opportunity for a photo with her. Her down-to-earth personality was still evident as she flashed her radiant smile for us. With that, our mission was accomplished, and we could finally rest well.