Cycling Bondoc Peninsula and the Northern Part of Camarines Province: An Epic Adventure
There's something special about embarking on an unfamiliar route—it often leads to unforgettable experiences. With the holidays upon us, it was the perfect time to embark on an epic ride and unwind from the long days of work. Our original plan was to explore the northern part of the Philippines, but due to an approaching typhoon, we decided to go in the opposite direction as a fallback plan.
The route we chose took us through hilly and coastal areas, presenting us with more than 8,000 meters of elevation gain. It was a challenge that rivaled the mountain province, made even more demanding by the scorching hot weather. Our journey began in Lucena, a three-hour bus ride from the capital.
Day 1: Lucena to San Andres, 194 kilometers
As we set off, a refreshing breeze greeted us, remnants of the tropical storm lingering in the southern region. The cool weather provided the perfect backdrop for our long flat to medium rolling terrain ride, where we immersed ourselves in the provincial life, passing by rice fields and enjoying the peacefulness of the countryside.
We took a moment to capture the beauty of the coastal area, just a few kilometers away from Mulanay town. And then, the hilly terrain unfolded before us, challenging both our bodies and spirits.
Relentless climbs from Mulanay to San Francisco town pushed us to our limits, with Kuya Zaldy aptly describing it as a never-ending ascent.
After covering approximately 170 kilometers, we reached San Francisco town, situated at the southern tip of the peninsula. Some of our bikes were in need of repair, but luckily, we found a local bike shop in this remote area. I had to replace my cables due to faulty housings.
Despite the late hour of 4:00 pm, we decided to press on for our first stop in San Andres. The locals warned us about tough climbs on the way, describing them as brutal. However, we weren't deterred. The first steep climb signaled the beginning of the real challenge. Each climb tested our resolve but also rewarded us with stunning views of the surrounding hills.
As we tackled numerous tough climbs, I couldn't help but worry about Edwin, who was using a road bike not ideally suited for this type of terrain. Yet, he amazed us with his tenacity and determination. The day reached its climax with the last 10-kilometer stretch on a gravel road known as "Mabato," aptly named for its rocky terrain. The road posed not only challenging climbs but also treacherous downhills, a true test of skill and nerve, particularly for those riding road bikes.
Night fell upon us as we continued our journey, navigating through the darkness, mindful of the occasional encounter with enthusiastic dogs. Finally, at 7:00 pm, we arrived at our first stop in San Andres, grateful for the opportunity to rest. San Andres served as the gateway for tourists heading to Alibijaban Island.
Day 2: San Andres to Sta. Elena, Camarines Norte, 140 kilometers
The second day dawned with clear skies and sunshine. Although it was a relatively short route, it posed its own challenges, with rolling terrain that tested our endurance. The toughest segments awaited us on the stretch from Buenavista to Lopez.
To find the best spots along the way, we relied on the advice of locals who shared their knowledge of the area. In the town of San Narciso, we discovered a picturesque spot called "Barkong Bato," perfect for capturing unforgettable selfies.
Fatigued by the constant climbs, Jay took a moment for a power nap, recharging his energy for the journey ahead.
After conquering the final climbs, we reached Lopez, Quezon, signaling the end of our challenging ascent. I took the opportunity to search for a reliable bike shop to fix my broken hydraulic brake. Thankfully, we stumbled upon Teps bike shop, where the owner, Kuya Tep, turned out to be an endurance cyclist himself. We bonded over our shared passion for cycling, discussing our past rides and admiring his impressive achievements documented on Strava. Coincidentally, he mentioned their "Far Cry" Fondo, a grueling 24-hour ride circling the peninsula, known for its unparalleled difficulty. I couldn't help but agree with him—this route was indeed more challenging than any other event or route we had encountered.
With our bikes in good shape, we continued towards Jay's hometown in Sta. Elena. Welcomed by his elder sister, we found respite in her home for the night, preparing ourselves for the adventures of the following day.
Day 3: Sta. Elena, Capalonga, and Daet, Camarines Norte, 150 kilometers
As the sun illuminated the picturesque landscapes, we embarked on what would be the most scenic leg of our tour. It reminded us of our previous journey through the mountain province, offering smooth roads, gradual climbs, sweeping switchbacks, refreshing breezes, and an abundance of trees lining our path.
Venturing 30 kilometers from the main highway, heading east towards the Pacific, we reached Capalonga—a small town boasting the most captivating coastal drive in the south. Dubbed the "Patapat of the South," it mesmerized us with its scenic beauty, leaving us with memories worth cherishing.
Day 4: Swimming in Bagasbas Beach, Daet, and the Journey Back to Manila
Our final night was spent in Daet, Camarines Norte, where we were fortunate enough to savor some of Bicol's finest dishes. Indulging in a variety of sticky rice, including my personal favorite, binutong, as well as Naga City's famous kinalas, we relished the authentic flavors of the region. Daet, being the northern part of Camarines Province, surprised us with its culinary delights.
Before bidding farewell to this memorable journey, we couldn't resist the allure of Bagasbas Beach in Daet. We reveled in the moment, celebrating the success of our three-day hilly ride. Bagasbas Beach, with its pristine sands and inviting waters, was the perfect place to reflect on our achievements and savor the beauty of nature.
As we prepared to depart for Manila, our hearts overflowed with gratitude for the unforgettable experiences, the bonds forged, and the breathtaking landscapes that unfolded before us. Dios mabalos—thank you, Bicol—for an incredible adventure that will forever hold a special place in our hearts.
