Cycling Benguet: Leaving the flats behind

Kim Javier
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Anticipation filled the air as we closely monitored the approaching storm, desperately hoping it would spare our precious three-day weekend. The Cordilleras, known for their unpredictable weather, presented a tough decision. Yet, fueled by optimism, we forged ahead with our planned bike ride. Little did we know, this would turn out to be the longest and most challenging ride of our lives.



Unpredictable Weather:

As we approached the slopes of Baguio, the weather took a turn for the worse. With temperatures hovering at a chilly 16 degrees Celsius and moderate rain pouring down, our spirits wavered. Nevertheless, determined to embark on our adventure, we braved the bone-chilling weather and set off towards La Trinidad.



The Scenic and Challenging Old Highest Point:

The gradual drop in temperature accompanied us as we ventured closer to the town of Atok. The old highest point, once a coveted destination for cyclists due to its scenic and challenging terrain, surprisingly proved to be the easiest part of our route. We couldn't help but appreciate the breathtaking views and the sense of accomplishment it brought.


The Unforgiving Road to Kabayan:

Our first stop for the day was the town of Kabayan, where we hoped to find lodging. Situated around 2,300 meters above sea level, the old highest point in Atok offered access to the Mongoto road leading to Kabayan. As we approached the road, we were astounded by its steepness, leaving us with no choice but to push our bikes all the way to the top. The incline measurements on our phone app averaged a staggering 25% grade. Although progress was slow due to necessary breaks, the vibrant vegetation, including the mesmerizing purple cabbage, captivated us along the way. Seeking shelter in a nearby sari-sari shop, we took a much-needed break, savoring hot coffee and snacks.



A Treacherous Descent:

Leaving Mongoto in the afternoon, we expected a fast and smooth 10-kilometer descent to Kabayan. However, Mother Nature had other plans. The weather suddenly turned wild as fog and mist engulfed the valley, creating an otherworldly atmosphere. To our surprise, the descent was incredibly steep, forcing us to walk for safety over the next 10 kilometers.


It felt like navigating a spiral staircase, with both brakes pressed tightly to handle the relentless slope. Going down alone in such treacherous conditions required nerves of steel. Eventually, we reached the base of the mountain, realizing that we had descended 1,500 meters in a mere 10 kilometers, a three-hour journey on foot. In contrast, Kuya Leo bravely rode his bike down in just an hour and a half.


A Night of Relief:

At Pinecone Lodge, our chosen haven for the night, a sense of relief washed over us. The rain had finally ceased, and we hoped for clear skies the next day, eager to leave behind the struggles of the prior day.

Beauty Amidst Difficulty:

As the sun rose, it revealed the true beauty of Benguet. Although our next destination, the new highest point, was a mere 33 kilometers from Kabayan, we knew it would present the toughest stretch of our journey. True to expectations, a steep climb welcomed us early on and persisted until we reached the junction leading to Tinoc. Thankfully, the clear skies allowed us to witness priceless scenery along the way, creating a magical backdrop to our grueling efforts.

Shortcuts and Extra Challenges:

Three of our companions discovered a shortcut recommended by the locals, promising a shorter distance to our main destination.


However, it proved to be yet another struggle as they crossed even higher mountains than our desired destination. Despite the challenges, they were fortunate to be rewarded with breathtaking views throughout their arduous journey.

The Final Ascent:

Five of us set out on the remaining 11-kilometer stretch, a grueling climb of 1,000 meters, to reach the country's highest highway. Halfway through, I found encouragement as I passed through a town, and the slope eased slightly. Checking my navigation, I realized there were only 6 kilometers left. With renewed determination, I convinced myself that walking was behind me and that I was entering the final stretch. The stunning scenery continued to captivate me, even as my legs screamed for relief.



The Last Climbs:

With just three kilometers remaining, the switchbacks grew steeper, pushing my physical limits. The temperature dropped further, creating an atmosphere of both challenge and triumph.


I reminded myself that I had already overcome the major climbs and that this was the last one. As the terrain tested our resolve, our group naturally split apart, each cyclist finding their own pace. However, we knew we would regroup at the summit, celebrating our collective accomplishment.

The Ultimate Achievement:

In retrospect, our 200-kilometer journey, encompassing 8,000 meters of elevation gain and reaching a peak of 10,000 meters, stands as a testament to our endurance and determination. Powered solely by our own strength, we traversed some of the world's most stunning countryside. Despite the difficulties and unexpected weather conditions, the beauty we encountered along the way made every moment worthwhile.


Conclusion:

Our epic adventure through the Cordilleras was not just a physical feat but also an opportunity to immerse ourselves in the wonders of nature. It taught us the importance of resilience, camaraderie, and pushing beyond our limits. As we reflect upon the monumental 200-kilometer journey we undertook solely on our own strength, we are filled with nostalgia for the awe-inspiring landscapes that unfolded before us. It was an expedition through some of the world's most stunning rural areas, etching unforgettable memories in our hearts.


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